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(Left: A View of Toledo, Hotel in Madrid)
I write to you now from the overnight train we are taking from Barcelona to Cordoba! Soon enough I will have finally arrived at my destination, will meet my host mom, and will get all settled in. For now, I will try to recap on the past week of travel. (Warning: I am sure that this will once more be a very lengthy post. Sorry once again. I should really just update more frequently so I have less to say.)
So much has happened, it may be hard to keep track. I feel like I have been busy for almost every moment since I have last written. Since Salamanca I have been to El Escorial, Madrid, Toledo, Segovia, Zaragoza, and Barcelona. As we were instructed was necessary, we left promptly from the hotel in Salamanca at 9 am. We had a big day ahead of us and had to leave early to accommodate such a full schedule. The plans were El Escorial, lunch, and on to Segovia. From Segovia, we would then a drive to Madrid and a group dinner in Madrid. This is not exactly how the day went. We went to El Escorial as planned and it was one of my favorite places that we have visited. It is a mountain town with cute streets and very colorful buildings that we walked around briefly on our way from the bus station to the monastery and palace, which were built in El Escorial by Felipe II. El Escorial de San Lorenzo is the name of the actual monastery. It was built to honor San Lorenzo, who had died for Spain, on a literal grill. The building thus is in the shape of a grill. It was freezing inside the stone buildings, but our tour guide did keep us moving. And the tour was great. The building is huge and amazing. I had heard ahead of time that the tour would include visits to the tombs, and I was slightly apprehensive about this morbid venture, but to my pleasant surprise the tombs were what amazed me the most. They were incredible. A majority of the building is constructed of white stone. Suddenly I found myself following many others down a dark marble staircase lined with bronze. And then we were in a sacred space. It was a circular room composed entirely of Dark Green and Rose colored Marble, detailed with bronze designs and accents. On one side of the circle were the tombs of the kings and on the other those of their queens. I really cannot convey how amazing this room was. The description we heard of the rotting room next door was not quite as thrilling, but not enough to distract me from the wonder of where I was standing. (sidenote: when touring Spain, and I am sure many other places in Europe and around the world, always look at the ceilings. We saw some of the most amazingly detailed and intricate ceilings on our tours, one of which was in this marble tomb.) The tombs did not end here. There were many others buried in this building, all of royal descent, though the rooms of these other burials were not quite as exciting as this first one. There was one tomb that was in the shape of a large cake that was the tomb of royal children who died before their first communion, which was sad, but very nicely made. At the end of the tour we also walked through an unbelievable library and on into a chamber with arches that when you whisper into the wall at the end of the arch, the sound of your voice is echoed out the other side of the arch on the other side of the room. This was very entertaining for us to experience.
After the tour at El Escorial and a quick lunch, we were back on the bus, but not headed for Segovia. The bitter cold at El Escorial was little compare to the snow that was falling on the mountain road leading to Segovia and so our itinerary had to change. But no worries, we were able to reschedule this now optional excursion. And so off we went to Madrid where the hotel was ready to welcome us early. I was really happy to have a slightly more relaxing day and be off and settled in Madrid. After checking into the hotel a bunch of us heading by foot over to the Prado museum. We did not have too much time to look around before closing, but it was still enough to see some great art and I really enjoyed seeing Velasquez’s “Las Meninas.” It was much larger than I had anticipated and seeing it in person made me really appreciate the details of the painting. After the Prado was a very entertaining group dinner at a restaurant just down from our hotel. At dinner there was a man who came to speak to us about customs of Spanish nightlife. This was a highly entertaining conversation which really peaked during the question portion when one of the boys on our trips asked if “grinding” was a type of dance common in Spain and in order to have his question answered, he was asked to and did in fact demonstrate with one of the adult women leading the group. When later trying to say that was embarrassing he said, “estoy embarazada,” which means “I am pregnant.” Once again, he was embarrassed.
We were in Madrid for four nights. During our time there we were staying in a hotel right in Puerta del Sol, which is the exact center of the city. It was a fun location to be in. We were walking distance from everywhere we wanted to be and were able to do a great deal of exploring around the plaza mayor and palacio real (royal palace). On the first full day we did a bus tour of the city, which I unwillingly fell asleep during. I felt really bad about falling asleep, but the brief nap turned out to be essential to my day. I had woken up that morning feeling really sick and I almost opted out of the day of touring, but after my little snooze I was feeling much better and ready for the day. Still I spent most of our trip around Spain stuffed up. I never went anywhere without tissues, though each day was better than the last. While I was awake and actively participating we saw some amazing sites. We then did a walking tour of the palacio real where I had quite literally the best tour guide I have ever had. She was incredibly animated and her Spanish was really easy to understand. It was a really fun tour around a very lavish building. A few nights later, while walked around with some friends we passed the palacio while a big event was letting out. We saw police escorts guarding cars leaving the palace and we later learned we had infact seen the King and Queen leaving, as well as the President of Argentina. Pretty cool stuff.
Other Madrid highlights: La Reina Sofia (modern art museum). I got to see Picasso’s Guernica. I was really happy to see it, but must say that I think the best part of the museum was the photography. I also liked getting to see some Dali, as crazy in person as I expected. After going to La Reina Sofia, we met up with my friend Sarah’s friend Javier, who is from Madrid and she knows through an exchange program from her high school. He brought one of his friends with him and it was great to really get to hang out with some Spaniards.
That night after I got back to my room, I read my friend Steve’s newest blog post and learned that he too was in Madrid! What a fantastic turn of events. I emailed him immediately and was able to meet up with him the next day. We went back to the Prado, walked around for quite a bit, went into an amazing park that Steve told me had once been Royal hunting grounds (let me just say, in Madrid they know how to create and maintain a wonderful park). After our wanderings, Steve and I met with some of my friends from the program as they were finishing chocolate con churros, and then the two of us headed out for some actual dinner. I was great to see him and catch up with his travels.
While in Madrid we also had outing to both Toledo and Segovia. Let me just say straight off that I absolutely love Toledo! Everything is old with cute little streets. I found it really comfortable there and much calmer than the hustle and bustle of Madrid. Though I must say, even in as big a city as Madrid, where the streets are crowded and quick, the Spanish lifestyle is overall so much more relaxed than the American, that there has never been a time so far when I have felt under any sort of pressure. In Toledo we toured a few churches and old synagogues and saw some of the most famous work of El Greco. The day was lovely and went very smoothly. I really felt I was getting into the swing of the schedule of a Spanish day. This was certainly an adjustment too because the day is structured much differently here and goes much later.
I also enjoyed our trip to Segovia, though this was only a half-day trip and so felt slightly rushed towards the end. We did not tour as much in Segovia and I was okay with that because I was really started to feel pretty toured out at that point. In Segovia we saw el alcazar. Fun fact: it is the palace that the Sleeping Beauty palace of Disney was based off of. The tour was slightly dull, but at the end a bunch of us climbed the tower and were able to get a pretty great tour of the top of the castle and of Segovia, which was wonderful. I don’t know what the news coverage was like in the US, but the day that we went to Segovia was the morning of the car bomb in Madrid. As we were on our way out the city the bombing took place and we saw police drive by us and close off the road. They were searching every vehicle leaving the city to make sure no suspected people were able to leave the scene. It was a little scary to see the police and have them come onto our bus, but they were nice to us, and we were easily on our way, driving through beautiful mountains.
After our days in Madrid, we set off on the bus once again. This time was our longest driving day yet. From Madrid to Barcelona on a bus is about 8 hours. We broke it up into two four-hour sessions of driving, stopping in the middle in Zaragoza to tour yet another cathedral. This time, the church visit fell during the time of one of the masses. While it was weird to be a tourist while a mass was going on, it made visiting the church so much more powerful to hear the mass and have the entire space filled with organ music. I loved it. Everything was so familiar for me, despite the language difference. After the tour, I ate lunch with a few friends including my friend Mary. When Mary was in high school she was host to a Spanish student who boarded at her high school and would come to her house over long weekends. Laura, the student, lives in Zaragoza and met us for lunch. She was hilarious and very energetic. It was very nice to meet her and once again have an opportunity to talk to someone who is from Spain.
Then it was onward to Barcelona! In Barcelona we had a much less structured schedule and lots of free time to explore. I got to see Alyssa and Greg (friends from Trinity) who are currently studying abroad in Barcelona. Seeing them was wonderful. The second time I met up with them we also got to see Elizabeth and Melissa who have been studying at Trinity Barcelona all year. Elizabeth hasn’t been home since September! I don’t think I could do that, but she is loving it.
The first full day in Barcelona, we did a tour in the morning and I officially fell in love with Gaudi. We went to parque Guell and I absolutely loved it and loved hearing everything that our tour guide had to say about it. The tour also took us by La Sangrada Familia, the catedral de Gaudi, which is still being built. The next day a bunch of us went back to the cathedral and some were able to climb up into the towers for an amazing view of the city. Going up made the entrance fee completely worth it, even though you had to pay another 2.50 Euros to go up.
The next day I walked down to the water and spent several hours hanging out at the beach with friends from the program. I touched the Mediterranean! Overall it was a relaxed visit to Barcelona and very enjoyable. I am excited to go back and spend more time there this summer! (For those of you who might not know, I am working with ASA programs in Barcelona for the month of July.
I realize this was not a terribly detailed account of Barcelona, but you have read through quite a long post by now, and I must admit I am quite tired. So I am going to stop for now. I will write again soon with first impressions of Cordoba!
Hope all is well.
Adios